Jesus christ that's scary looking.
Oh, I found more infographics.
Oh look. Another infographic where the designer thinks the point is to draw pretty pictures around words, rather than use images to illustrate data.
I once saw an infographic illustrating this very point, but now I can't find it.
I can confirm that this is not just a joke but also actually a statement of fact (and therefore a DOUBLE JOKE)
I'm sorry. Please accept my apologies.
The solution, as we have learned from our transformer experiments, involves micturition.
Too bad it's not a pinball machine, they're simple. Dealing with the flyback circuitry on a vector Atari, that's voodoo.
why not sacrifice a chicken on the circuit board? may the blood will make the machine spirits happy.
I think you would have been better off building a MAME cabinet. If you're going to do this kind of wiring, at least make a sexbot.
MAME cabinets are at their least satisfying when emulating vector games. Add to that the Tempest controller, and you have total emulation fail.
My experience trying to play MAME on MacOS and Linux, even using a big X-Arcade controller, has been very, very far from satisfying. Most of the games I'm interested in don't work properly, and those that do just feel wrong.
I gave up on MAME and just bought a few of the "arcade classics" PS3 collections. Those are probably MAME inside, but someone actually made them work right.
But can software put 20K volts across your chest?
I gather that Q606 wasn't the problem. You shouldn't have to pull the chassis to get to the deflection Q's. Oh wait...standup or cocktail?
As far as we can tell, all of the case-mounted transistors are good, so the problem is upstream somewhere. Since there have been occasions where percussive maintenance temporarily fixed the problem, I suspect a bad solder. Of course, the thing is so flaky that I'm afraid something new is going to break every time I put it back in the case to test it again (the cables aren't long enough to fire it up without re-installing the board in the monitor.)
It's a standup.
Trying to do a subtle diagnostic on these isn't worth the time. If you get one of Bob Roberts' kits with all the extra parts (about $40), it will only take about 45 minutes to install them.
If this were a Space Duel or Gravitar you could just slip the monitor in and out in a minute without doing all the bolts, but Tempest is particularly tricky to install/remove the monitor, so it's best to test without reinstalling. My advice is to set the monitor on something like a barstool set right behind the game, and plug it in. If you leave the test switch on, then it's relatively easy to go through the test screens.
If someone who had a working web site would sell me a cap kit, I might consider that, but neither of those sites you linked to do online sales, so fuck it. I can either talk to a dinosaur on the phone and replace everything; or I can figure out what's wrong and replace just that.
If there was even one electronics store in San Francisco (absence of continues to boggle -- is there nobody who both owns a soldering iron and lives north of Palo Alto?) I'd just go down the parts list and buy them all, since I imagine that would cost about $10.
But I will go to great lengths to avoid talking on the phone or getting on a freeway.
Man, every third time I pull the board to look at it again, another damned wire breaks off. Spending another $250 on a whole new XY monitor and dropping this one off a god damned roof is sounding more economical by the minute.
It also looks like you might have an early revision of one of those low-voltage replacement boards. You might replace it with a more recent LV2000 board.