thats pretty awesome... i have a similar wall covered with postcards of places i've been, but i could use that application to make a more personal version of the wall i already have.
I was just playing with that today.. my xeon box loves it. :)
Nice balance with the wall on the other side of the mannequin, the analog original as it were...
our solution, at the old krackhaus, was for sara to print out on her color printer all the desired images; we then taped them down to our fridges and walls with strips of clear packing tape that protected them.
not a bad solution.
but i like this....
Comparing the sides of the mannequin, I wonder if you could eliminate the blank space entirely by associating an "essential rectangle" with each picture, so that other pictures would be allowed to overlap any part not inside it.
I realize that adapting the algorithm to do that might be really hard, and certainly marking such a rectangle for each picture is drudgery exceeding that of kernel recompilation. But having been shown good, perfect becomes much more desirable.
You mean "make the images completely cover the background, with no white showing through?"
It can almost do that; I generated a few files with --margin set to negative-one inch, but there were still big white boxes here and there, and it looked really wrong.
One way around that that I thought about was doing two separate layouts -- one just to cover the background, and then the "real" layout on top of that. There's still a chance that to white holes would line up, though.
Another way would be to make a second pass to spot the white holes and then just stuff some more pictures behind them.
I'm not sure the "overlap by an inch" approach will look good in general, though; when tiling them by hand with actual photos, I know I spent a lot of time moving things around to avoid, e.g., covering part of someone's face. That sort of contextual knowledge is not easy to automate.
On the other hand, it is likely that all the action is near the center of each picture.
What about a hybrid method? One normal pass as you want it (with no or little overlap so only the edged would be stepped on), a second pass to create the background with the same set of photos, but darkened say 30% (or even just decrease saturation or contrast rather than brightness, that'd be a cool effect) or so, with the larger overlap amount. Your content layer then has little to no overlap to worry about, and the background both fills all white space, and is not as attention grabbing as the foreground. This might be easier than checking for white spots lining up in two layers (I would think so, it's just running the same script with two different overlap values, one negative, one positive or zero), but I have no expereince there...
Does that turn into a knapsack algorithm, then?
Nevermind, I took a look in the code where you already answered that. Out of curiosity, did you experiment with an NP algorithm, or do any estimates as to how long it would have taken?
That looks amazing. I want one too.
What's the quality like up close? Is it more like an inkjet, or a photographic print?
It's 300 dpi on thick matte paper, so it looks totally photographic to me...
The printer is an Epson 9600, it uses 7 colors CMYK as well as Light C, Light M, and Grey. It is printing a continuous tone image in this case at 300 dpi. Epson claims a print resolution of 2880 x 1440 dpi, which we call bull$#!t on. Anything above 300 and you can not see any noticeable difference in an image. And type looks soft below about 8 or 9 pt no matter what. Because it is technically a SWOP standard set up, the colors are all going to be more muted than a true photgraphic printer. Epson has some cheats using it's 7 colors to get brighter more vivid prints, but, as we are a print shop, we make sure that those are not used. But aside from that, they are considered photo quality, as there is no halftone pattern and almost no visible lines from the travel of the print heads.
[side rant]My biggest complaint with this printer, and Epson in general. Is that you can not mix a black only with color on the same page. Because the printer is ICC driven, it insists on converting the black only portion of the image to a 4 color black. End result is always an extremely crappy green tinted black and white image. If dealing with B&W and epson, the key is to create a 4c B&W image, with the yellow trailing behind the cyan and magenta.
That is so fucking cool. I want an uber-printer now!
Then again, for the price of a printer like that I could probably just build a wall sized display.